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World Foodie Guide

a guide to 'traveleating'

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A Short Guide To Eating In London

Apr 22nd, 2009 by admin

Barrafina interior

This short guide to eating in London was inspired by various people. Armelle is a reader who visited London over a long weekend with her husband using mostly my recommendations, while Jen from Jenius is an Australian food blogger visiting London next month as part of her European tour. And quite often, friends based abroad email to ask where they should eat in London, which throws me into a blind panic, because there are so many options and I find it very hard to recommend just one or two places.

When I go travelling, I usually end up writing a short guide on where to eat after the trip, as well as detailed reviews of each restaurant. A summary with links to the reviews seems to provide a better overview of where to eat in a particular city than making someone trawl through individual reviews. As a result, I’ve written guides on Beijing, HK and Macau, based on a two week eating trip last October, as well as Bologna and Madeira. When Jen emailed me, however, I realised that I’ve never written one for London. I have posts on where to eat in Soho, where to eat dim sum, favourite London restaurants and how to eat on a budget, but not a handy guide for visitors to London, who may not have much time to research eating options.

So after some thought, here are a few recommendations, grouped geographically. I’ve concentrated on the three areas of London that I know best.

Tapa Room chorizo and boiled egg

Eating In Marylebone High Street

I used to live here, so this area is a particular favourite of mine. Apart from food, there are also many independent shops and boutiques (De Walden Estate, landlord of Marylebone High Street, is very choosy about whom it chooses as retail tenants). My favourite non-food shops are Skandium – Scandinavian furniture and interiors, Theory – beautifully tailored clothes from the States, Brora - gorgeous Scottish cashmere and KJ’s Laundry – women’s boutique with some great collections.

The street is also close to Selfridges, which has a superb food hall, national museum The Wallace Collection (which also houses Oliver Peyton’s brasserie, open from breakfast through to afternoon tea and dinner) and last but not least, Regent’s Park.

Breakfast at The Providores and Tapa Room, followed by a tour of all the excellent foodie destinations on and around the High Street, including acclaimed butcher and charcuterie The Ginger Pig, cheese shop La Fromagerie (where you can eat at the communal table and freeze inside the walk-in cheese room) and kitchenware shop Divertimenti (which also runs cookery classes).

Lunch on fresh fish and chips at The Golden Hind or pasta at Caffé Caldesi. At the weekends, when the area is even busier, visit the Marylebone Farmers’ Market (Sundays only 10am-2pm) and Cabbages & Frocks market (Saturdays only 11am-5pm).

Le Cafe Anglais pike boudin

Eating In Notting Hill

I worked on Ledbury Road many years ago, before it became even more expensive and trendy. Notting Hill is incredibly popular with tourists, but if you want to visit Portobello Market, then weekends are unavoidable.

Foodies should definitely visit independent cookery bookshop Books for Cooks, which not only stocks one of the best collection of food-related books and runs cookery classes and workshops, but has a tiny test kitchen where you can eat lunch.

Another recommended food destination is Notting Hill Farmers’ Market (Saturdays only, 9am-1pm) for fresh organic ingredients. 202 Café is great for brunch, while Daylesford Organic next door is pricey, but worth popping into if you’re in the area, as is The Hummingbird Bakery if you’re a fan of cupcakes. I also like having brunch or light lunch at Tom’s Delicatessen, but turn up early if you want to avoid queues for weekend brunch.

For lunch or dinner, head over to Hereford Road for simply prepared British food using seasonal ingredients, or Le Café Anglais for some Parmesan custard and anchovy toast, amongst other delights.

Yalla Yalla halloumi

Eating In Soho

I’ve been working in Soho for seven years and know it well. One of my favourites in London is tapas bar Barrafina, owned by the Hart brothers (who also own Fino and Quo Vadis, both of which reside on my restaurant wishlist). If you can’t bear to queue for an hour or more, go off-peak, which is what I do. Fernandez & Wells is a must for coffee and cake, lunch or wine and tapas, and I’ve yet to find someone who doesn’t rave about it, while Yalla Yalla is a new hot Lebanese eaterie that everyone is currently talking about.

Drop by hip Italian bakery Princi, a joint venture between restaurateur Alan Yau and the Milanese boutique bakery chain, for breakfast, lunch, dinner or any time you feel peckish. But avoid peak hours unless you love chaos. At Bocca di Lupo you can share many small dishes from various Italian regions with your friends, while traditional Italian delicatessen Lina Stores is worth visiting if you’re passing by.

Princi

I like Yauatcha for modern dim sum and tea and some of the best cakes in town. To avoid the stressful ‘we need the table back in 1 hour and 45 minutes’ announcement, go for a late lunch or afternoon tea and ask to sit on the ground floor level.

I venture into Chinatown more for food shopping at See Woo supermarket than to eat, although recently I’ve been eating there more – try Leong’s Legend, Ba Shan and Rasa Sayang.

And if you happen to be wandering through Golden Square, visit the Nordic Bakery for a coffee and warm, sticky cinnamon bun. The latter is highly recommended (and is very big!).

Ba Shan five-spiced beef salad with coriander and garlic

And Don’t Forget…

Borough Market is London’s oldest and most famous food market (open Thursdays to Saturdays only), where foodies stock up on fresh seasonal produce, from asparagus to scallops. Wright Brothers Oysters, Brindisa, The Ginger Pig and Konditor and Cook are just a few of the many producers based there.

A traditional champagne afternoon tea should be high on your list of things to do, if you can spare a couple of hours to relax over dainty sandwiches, pastries, cakes and warm scones with jam and clotted cream. There are many locations to choose from. I’ve been to The Dorchester and Yauatcha, but The Wolseley on Piccadilly is also well-known for its teas. If you can’t go for tea, try breakfast there instead. The breakfast options at The Wolseley are so good that The Times’ restaurant critic AA Gill wrote a little book called Breakfast At The Wolseley (published by Quadrille), including all the recipes.

Pearl Liang BBQ pork puffs

Finally Pearl Liang near Paddington Station is my recommendation if you want to try dim sum during your stay. It’s still my favourite for dim sum, along with Yauatcha.

I could go on forever, as London is gigantic, and I’ve just covered three areas. Places that I like, but aren’t centrally located, were left out, because I thought tired visitors with little time on their hands wouldn’t want to travel too far out from centralLondon for a great meal (such as mouth-watering grilled meat at Turkish Mangal Ocakbasi in Stoke Newington). If I’m wrong about this, let me know!

Visitors – I hope this gives you some suggestions. Do leave me comments if you need more specific ideas. Londoners – feel free to leave your own suggestions!

Other guides and useful ‘traveleating’ resources can be found under Useful Info and a list of London restaurants can be found here.

Helen Yuet Ling Pang @ World Foodie Guide

Tags: Borough Market, breakfast, dining out, dinner, food, London, lunch, Marylebone High Street, Notting Hill, restaurant review, restaurants, Soho, traveleating, visitors

Posted in afternoon tea, bakery, breakfast, British, Chinese, cooking, dim sum, dining out, fish and chips, food, Italian, London, restaurant review, restaurants, tapas, traveleating

13 Responses to “A Short Guide To Eating In London”

  1. on 22 Apr 2009 at 2:25 pm1canelvr

    Great Soho suggestions! Can I add Hummus Bros, also on Wardour St? It’s basically a plate of hummus with different topping options, but if you want something wholesome and cheap it’s a great place for a quick lunch/quick pre-evening out dinner. Even if it’s busy you don’t have to wait long, plus the staff are generally very sweet!

  2. on 22 Apr 2009 at 6:41 pm2Fiona

    A very nice thoughtful ‘insiders’ guide’ with many personal favourites (including Bocca di Lupo, one of my favourite haunts). I’d also suggest, not far from there just off the top end of Trafalgar Square, Terroirs which is a terrific Parisien-style wine bar with some extremely interesting and quirky wines and great charcuterie.

    Useful to have a tip-off of a place to eat near Paddington. I quite often meet my daughter there and we both love dim sum so we’ll try Pearl Liang

  3. on 22 Apr 2009 at 11:21 pm3Aeyal Gross

    Thanks
    I agree with many recommendaitons and also learned of new places I should visit! Re Chinese, I think Baozi Inn as as good as its sibling Ba Shan (the latter is really in Soho, not Chinatown). And looking forward for the third sibling, Bar Shu, to reopen!
    However I found Rasa Sayang rather disappointing, especially after being spoiled with good Malasyan food in impecabble Kiasu (Bayswater – not to be missed!), and also in Satay House (Paddington).

    Re Tea your ideas are great and Champagne Tea is a treet, the one in the Claridge’s is nice if people want a hotel tea, although Yauatcha is my favorite for full afternoon tea as the quality of the tea and its preparation is the highest. Also, TeaSmith, (Spitafield Market), which is I think THE tea bar/house for serious tea loves, now has its own version of afternoon tea on weekends, no Champagne there, also no scones… but Wiliiam Curley’s cakes and chocolates…, a real treat…. I wrote about the place and the collaboration here:
    http://chadao.blogspot.com/2009/01/london-tea-and-chocolate-tasting.html

    I think Ottolenghi should also be on such a list, especially perhaps the Islington branch, for its wonderful vegetable focused food and the patiserrie…

    Finally, in addition to wonderful Barrafina what about Salt Yard and its sibling Dehesea for tapas in the area?

  4. on 23 Apr 2009 at 7:16 am4Aeyal Gross

    Ps -in Soho I also think Busaba Eatthai- great and good value…

  5. on 23 Apr 2009 at 10:24 pm5OysterCulture

    Helen,

    Thanks so much for sharing this list – what a keeper. I fly through London in September and have an 8 hour layover at Heathrow. I’m hoping to hop on the Heathrow Express and check out a bit of town, now I have some great starter ideas. Although I realize I must show some constraint.

  6. on 25 Apr 2009 at 8:38 pm6admin

    canelvr – thanks for the rec! I walk past it most days, but I’ve yet to eat there…

    Fiona – thanks for the Terroirs rec! My boss first mentioned it a few months ago, but I still haven’t been. You’d like dim sum at Pearl Liang. After a year of researching dim sum places (with 12 more to visit), it’s still my number one, closely followed by Yauatcha.

    Aeyal Gross – thanks for all the great recs! I have to say Kiasu is good, but not that amazing (I went with a Singaporean friend last year. Looking forward to trying Rasa Sayang though, and Ba Shan, though the food at Baozi Inn was just average in my opinion when I went.

    OysterCulture – thanks! You should be able to do some fun things and have a nice meal during your layover. Let me know if you need more help deciding where to go and what to do!

    Helen Yuet Ling

  7. on 26 Apr 2009 at 7:35 pm7Lizzie

    I wouldn’t recommend Ba Shan after the meal I had there. What about good pub grub? The Newman Arms in Fitzrovia does a mean pie n’ mash.

  8. on 27 Apr 2009 at 8:08 pm8admin

    Lizzie – thanks for the rec, pie and mash sounds great! And so close to me too…

    Helen Yuet Ling

  9. on 28 Apr 2009 at 5:08 pm9Aeyal Gross

    Interesting, I seemed to have enjoyed Kiasu much more (and went with Malasyan friend who approved very much:)). Seems like Baozi/Ba Shan are causing some controversy… I join you in adoring Yauatcha and should try Pearl Liang too (thanks for the dim sum research!). Can you say which other Chinese places you like then in London? I share your love for Barrafina, Buca di Lupo, Princi…

  10. on 13 May 2009 at 4:46 pm10tehbus

    Im surprised you worked on Ledbury Road and never mentioned the Ledbury! Had a fantastic meal there just last week.

  11. on 15 May 2009 at 11:03 am11admin

    tehbus – glad to hear you had an excellent meal there. But when I worked on Ledbury Road in the mid-90s, there was no Ledbury.

    Helen Yuet Ling

  12. on 15 May 2009 at 2:57 pm12Ken

    Great job on the list! I think I’ll start sending my visiting friends a link to this rather than having to write up something everytime they ask! The only place I would add that has never disappointed me is Ottolenghi. The location on Upper Street in Islington is the only one open for dinner but I always try to stop by for a bite at the Notting Hill location whenever I’m in the neighborhood. Like I tell people, if I could eat Ottolenghi every day, I think I could actually be a happy vegetarian.

  13. on 16 May 2009 at 5:20 pm13admin

    Ken – thank you, very kind of you to say so! And thank you for the Ottolenghi recommendation too, I remember walking past it the last time I was on Ledbury Road…

    Helen Yuet Ling

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