Trattoria Meloncello (Italian) – Bologna, Italy (9.5/10)
Jan 1st, 2008 by admin
A few weeks ago, I mentioned some restaurants that I’d researched for our eating trip to Bologna, Italy (which ended yesterday). In total, we visited six restaurants, all of which were booked a month in advance. This is the first review, of our favourite one, Trattoria Meloncello. It’s received one of the highest ratings I’ve ever given a restaurant – 9.5/10. In short, it’s a perfect gem of a place, and highly recommended.
Firstly, I must reveal how we reached Meloncello. We walked the entire time we were in Bologna, so we thought that we’d get to Meloncello easily on foot. It is possible, but it’s about 45 minutes walk from Piazza Maggiore. The problem was that we hadn’t allowed enough time to get there and as it was nearing 1pm (the time of our reservation), we had to walk faster and faster up Via Saragozza, which must be one of the longest roads in Bologna! There were no taxis (I don’t think you can just hail one in the streets anyway), and we were getting really hot and bothered. Number 240a seemed a lifetime away, and it was such a relief to finally see it across the road. Meloncello is literally at the foot of the 4 km rather steep climb (666 portico arches) to the Santuario della Beata Vergine di San Luca, up in the hills. But it was definitely worth the trek. Imagine if it had been closed…
In the end, we were less than 10 minutes late. We’d also had to reconfirm the reservation upon our arrival in Bologna. And I can see why. It was already busy when we arrived, but not long after, the restaurant was absolutely packed with locals. There wasn’t a single tourist there either! There are two dining rooms, the first which I think can be quite draughty in the winter, and the cosy interior room, which is where we had our lunch. Framed autographs and photos of famous Italians lined the walls. And in the summer, there’s garden seating too, which must be enchanting.
The service was faultless – extremely friendly and efficient. One of the two sisters who owns the restaurant was serving. The other one cooks, although she wasn’t in the kitchen when we were there. The waiter who served us spoke excellent English, which was useful as Meloncello does not have a written menu. We knew this already, and weren’t worried as my husband’s Italian is pretty good. But it was great to have the dishes explained in English, as it eliminated all chances of mistakes – husband is vegetarian, while I’m a keen carnivore.
He told us the pasta choices (all fresh of course) for the primo piatto – tortellini in brodo, graminia (a very fine white spaghetti) with Bolognese sauce (made with sausage), fettucine with Bolognese sauce (made with minced meat), tortelloni and gnocchi. With the latter two, you could choose from butter and sage (al burro e salvia), tomato sauce (pomodoro) or Bolognese. I think that you could really have any combination though, so just ask for it.
What we ordered:
As I’d already had tortellini in brodo the night before at Caminetto d’Oro, I chose the fettucine al Bolognese - a Meloncello classic. Husband had the tortelloni (ricotta and spinach) al burro e salvia. Both were excellent choices, although anything we ordered would have been heavenly. The dishes were simple, unadorned and sublime. I actually preferred the tortelloni to my fettucine, but then I always seem to like other people’s choices more. The portions were a good size too. Meanwhile, other diners nearby were having various things in brodo, which looked very tempting.
After we finished, we sat there wondering what would happen next, as we hadn’t been told about any other dishes. We also didn’t know the prices of anything! Our waiter then returned to tell us the choices for the secondo piatto – Meloncello’s signature dish of polpette (meatballs with potatoes and peas in tomato sauce), stuffed courgettes with meat, sliced veal, rabbit, osso buco and the special of ‘baby pork’. I asked him which I should have – the polpette or ‘baby pork’ – and he recommended the former. I agreed, as Meloncello’s polpette is supposedly the best in Bologna. He said next time I could have the ‘baby pork’. Husband had no option really but to have another first course, which pleased him immensely, and the gnocchi al pomodoro was recommended.
Again, the second courses were superb. The gnocchi was so fresh and light that some of the potato starch leaked into the tomato sauce, blurring the two. Not a criticism by any means, as gnocchi we’ve had elsewhere has been quite firm (even rubbery). My polpette was lovely – three good-sized meatballs, with three potatoes and lots of peas, with a light tomato-based sauce. Our waiter said that their polpette is made with high quality veal, pork, mortadella, Serrano ham and Parmesan. And that it’s important to order polpette from a trusted place, as some restaurants use inferior quality meat.
We couldn’t not have a dessert to round off the meal, which had so far been such a wonderful experience, so we ordered the zuppa inglese (like an English trifle) to share. The other options were tiramisu, creme caramel, rice cake and something resembling panna cotta made with coffee, rum and amaretto. Another outstanding choice!
The verdict?
With half a jug of red wine (local Sangiovese), water and coffee, the total came to an incredible 55 Euros, minus service (covers x 2 at 4.00, water at 2.00, wine at 5.00, primos were 9.00 each, secondo was 11.00, dessert was 4.00 and coffee 1.80). Having paid two or three times this for each of the previous meals so far, this was fantastic value for money, particularly as it was also the best meal we had in Bologna.
The location was great too – (you must go up to San Luca afterwards!), the service so warm and friendly, the ambience lovely and ‘homey’, and best of all, the food was beautiful in its simplicity. We felt so pleased to have made it there, and just to be there, having a very special lunch. Incidentally, there’s a Michelin Guide recommendation sticker on the door, but this didn’t make any difference to our meal. With or without it, it was a perfect lunch. In fact, during the restaurant research period, I’d been expressly forbidden by the husband to select any Michelin-starred eateries. Afterwards, we walked up to San Luca and back down again, before heading back into town. The entire trek was about 15 km or more, but absolutely necessary in order to digest all the food we had consumed…I’d be more than happy to do it all over again next time we go there!
Have a look at the summary of our trip and other restaurant recommendations in Where To Eat In Bologna…
10 – Perfection, 9.5 – Sensational, 9 – Outstanding, 8.5 – Superb,
8 – Excellent, 7.5 – Very Good, 7 - Good, 6.5 - Above Average, 6 – Average
All the Italy restaurant reviews on World Foodie Guide
Contact Details:
Trattoria Meloncello
Via Saragozza 240/a
Bologna
Italy
Tel: +39 (0)51 614 3947
Closed Monday evening and all day Tuesday (it’s also closed at other times of the year, so do check beforehand)
Great review Helen! Now you got me started on a diet! This is simplicity at its best. You can just see the love put in to the dishes! That zuppa inglese looks so scrumptuous. I will definitely move Meloncello up my list of must-go to places to eat.
Thanks Vic! You’re going to need trousers with elasticated waistbands by the middle of your trip! I’ll write a review every two or three days over the next few weeks for the other Bologna restaurants, but you should definitely keep Meloncello on your list. And book if you’re really serious…Helen Yuet Ling
What an experience! There’s nothing like working up a healthy appetite. Your pictures and descriptions really paint a fantastic picture of Meloncello (I’m drooling at the thought of gnocchi!). Mark.
Thanks Mark! If only you’d been there to help out with the wine ordering…Helen Yuet Ling
Hello Helen, how are you ? How wonderful review, indeed. Hope you remember me from Rio when I met you and XXXX. As I’m from Italian heritage, the Italian cuisine always fascinated me. Your description and the photos taken at Meloncello gave me the right idea of the great quality of its food. I’ve never been in Italy but if I would be there someday be sure that I’ll look for Meloncello in Bologna.
Best regards and keep doing such wonderful work,
José
Hello! Of course I remember you! XXXX mentioned that he’d sent you the review. I have quite a few more reviews to write, so I’ll let you know when they’re ready! We had a wonderful time and are still recovering from all the amazing food…Helen Yuet Ling
Hi Helen Yuet Ling,
Sounds like you had a great time on holiday. Lovely review; the food looked really tasty and comforting, and I could almost taste it!
I love the simplicity and freshness of really good Italian food (as opposed to the “heaviness” of less than perfect Italian-American food!) Reminds me that one of my goals when I come back to Europe for an extended stay is to go on a gastranomic/learning to cook vacation in Tuscany, and introduce my husband to really good Italian food as he knows no different.
Happy New Year – to good food and good friends.
Susan S. Cheung
Happy New Year Susan! Your goal sounds absolutely wonderful. You can cook for me when you return from Tuscany!…Helen Yuet Ling
Alas, Meloncello will not be open at the time of our visit. Maybe a good reason for another trip. Da Amerigo will also be closed. I will try Gigina.
Vic, what a shame! I read a good review about Gigina though. That’s why I booked so early, as some restaurants close between Christmas and New Year, some in January and some in the summer. Trattoria Tony is one that my husband never seems to be able to catch! My father-in-law loves it there…Good luck and let me know about Guisti in Modena. Helen Yuet Ling
My favorite meal in Bologna in Nov. 2007 also was lunch at Meloncella. The food was all fantastic, but one memorable part of the day was the service. Here was a place with, as singer Greg Brown puts it, “all the love cooked in” to the food, and our server too fed us every ounce of his heart in passion-filled answers. As you said, there was no menu and our waiter, instead, said “I speak the menu.” We found it particularly interesting that, when we asked for an explanation of one dish, he had to put his note pad down to add hands-impassioned animation to his responses. This is to say nothing of the fact that one of our spouses – not mine – thought the young man exceptionally dashing (he was the son of the owner in the picture). Yeah, well, maybe. But his sister was cute too, so there. This is an excellent place, family owned, with great, inexpensive food, a local clientele and magic for free. Polpette indeed!
Pedalaforte – I was so glad we ate here! The walk all the way from our hotel, then up to San Luca, then all the way back to the hotel again helped to keep the weight down (I hope). I’ve been recommending it to loads of people. It was such a perfect combination of simple, delicious food, wonderful service and a lovely dining environment. If only it were my local! Can’t wait to go back, probably next year now.
Helen Yuet Ling
Hi, I just surfed into your site and, following your review made a reservation for dinner next week at Trattoria Meloncello in Bologna. We can’t wait! We have spent the past two months eating our way through Florence and are just stopping overnight in Bologna on our way ‘home’ to Turkey. Now I need to find somewhere ‘light’ for lunch so as to leave space for Meloncello!
Thanks for the work you put into your site. I’ll link to it as soon as we post our next Florence/Bologna site update.
Alan – ooh, I hope you enjoy it at Meloncello! It’s just very simple food served in a small, family-run space. Eating your way around Florence sounds wonderful. I’ve yet to visit.
Helen Yuet Ling
Hi Helen, Florence is great!
We just updated our site, and although we haven’t yet visited Meloncello we linked to your blog – hope you don’t mind – as we have enjoyed it so much.
http://www.alanjoanhere.com/2009_Italy_Florence3.html
Regards
Alan
Alan Teed – thank you, that’s really flattering! Lovely photos by the way. Makes me want to jump on a plane right away. It’s been great to meet fellow foodies. I hope to go to Italy again sometime this year…
Helen Yuet Ling
Hi Helen-
Just returned from a quick weekend trip to Bologna. Let me preface this by saying, we live in Vicenza, only 1 1/2 hours away. We were so looking forward to this getaway to see what the gastronomic capital would offer us. I tried your suggestion of Meloncello; in fact, we ordered exactly what you recommended- the hosts were very accomodating and pleasant… However- the food was so-so, certainly not a place I would eat again, and in the end for 3 primi’s at 10 euro each!! (myself, hubby & 7 year old) 2 secondi, 3 dolce, wine, 2 waters & a Fanta = 95 euro! In Vicenza this would be a down right crime- especially for a restaurant where the menu is read off. Just wanted to share our experience- there were loads of other English speakers there, and I only wonder if they are getting the same “bill” that we were stuck with?
Mia Guerra – I’m so sorry to hear about your disappointing meal! What a shame. I was there 18 months ago, but I’m sure the standards wouldn’t have dropped that much in such a short space of time. When I next go to Bologna, I’ll try it again and write a revisit review or at least update this review. Thank you for taking the time to let me know, I really appreciate it.
Helen Yuet Ling
Hi Helen,
Just visited your site, which came up when I was searching for info on the B&B, 9 Muse, which was recommended by Antonio Sabatini when I made reservations for Dal Pescatore in October. This will be our 3rd visit to Dal Pescatore. Like you, we rate it a 10+. Our first visit (spring 2004) was also for lunch and our second (fall 2006) for dinner. The atmosphere was quite different each time, but both were incredible experiences. On our first visit, there were only us and a Swiss couple who had driven down just for the meal and were in somewhat of a hurry – what a pity. We sat at a table by the veranda and the door was open. The Sabatini’s family dog wandered by and for some reason took a liking to me and spent the entire meal under our table, on top of my feet. Signora Nadia tried to get him to move, but he kept coming back. I guess the family decided that if we passed the dog’s inspection, then we were ok. Between courses, the maitre d’ took us outside to the river and through the garden and showed us many of the things that we would be eating. We were there on the occasion of our 37th wedding anniversary and they gifted us with many remembrances; menus autographed by the entire family, the book of 50 world’s best restaurants, and as we left the parking lot, Signora Bruna ran outside with a bouquet of flowers for me. She was so sweet and genuine. When we returned the second time, we were shocked to find that they remembered us, even though it was two and a half years later. That time, the restaurant was full (and we even recognized a couple of high profile patrons), but we were still given service as if we were the only people there. They again presented us with signed menus and the maitre d’ told us that the cover art was by a very well known artist and they would most likely be collecter’s items. They have a standard that, it seems, will not be lowered.
I have enjoyed reading your blogs. My husband & I are also total foodies and had the wonderful pleasure of living in Italy for 7 years. We were located in a small suburban town just north of Milano, not far from Como. Unfortunately we had to return to the U.S. in 2003 and now must content ourselves with vacations. During the time we spent in Italy, both while living there and vacationing, we were lucky to be able to travel extensively and have tried soooo many wonderful restaurants. I wish that I had kept notes as you do, however many were so outstanding that they will forever be imprinted in our minds. The one thing that I have to say, however, is that I think you are really shortchanging yourselves by avoiding Michelin starred restaurants. Yes, many of our favorites are not even in the Michelin Guide – it certainly isn’t a prerequisite for a good restaurant, (and some of the most fun is discovering great new places) but some of our most memorable meals do have stars and to pass up something that could be so truly wonderful, like Dal Pescatore, just because it is recognized, seems short-sighted to me. There are some other organizations that also have some very good restaurants – the Slow Food Movement, Piatti di Buon Ricordo, and the Italian Touring Club. Just as with the Michelin, I haven’t liked all of the restaurants that I’ve been to in these guides, case in point was the highly ranked L’Assassino, in Milano, which has now thankfully been removed from the Michelin, but I wouldn’t avoid one just because it is listed. They can be a good starting point in doing research. Reading reviews is always good, but it is important to get a sense of the type diner who is writing the review. Many are only concerned with the quantity of food for the lowest price. Some Americans will give a place a bad review just because they have to wait a short time between courses or can’t get the check fast enough, when in Italy we know that getting the check too quickly is considered an insult. We have had some great meals at some of the Michelin’s “bib gourmands” or restaurants listed with coins denoting good values, however we typically prefer the ones in more out of the way places, as it seems to us that many of them located in large cities are mediocre and just too touristy for our tastes. And yes, some one and two starred Michelin restaurants we have found overrated. We feel that it is a tribute to our taste that quite a few of our disappointments were taken out of the Michelin the following year. On the other hand, some of the best meals we’ve had have been from starred restaurants. And not all of these are out of sight, price wise. We’ve had memorable meals for under euros 100 in one starred restaurants in almost all the regions we’ve travelled in – you have to research and order accordingly, but with local wine and antipasto or primo, secondo, dessert and caffe’, it can be done, sometimes easily. And we’ve actually had a bargain in the two starred Antica Osteria del Ponte in Abbiategrasso, just north of Milano. We had a fabulous 3 course meal there with local wine for about euros 130. Another meal that we considered a bargain for what we had was at the one starred Locanda del Pilone, just outside of Alba. We have always tried to go to Alba every October during truffle season and have tried many wonderful restaurants there. Truffle dinners will be expensive, there is no getting around it. White truffles have been known to sell at more than $100 per ounce. At Locanda del Pilone we paid about euros 250, around the same as you did at Dal Pescatore, but we had 7 full courses, each course containing an abundant amount of white truffle (must have been a good year), as well as a wonderful, well rated bottle of Barbaresco. The meal was truly exquisite. We have paid a similar amount at other (non starred) restaurants in Alba for a 3 course meal with a small amount of truffle shaved on the pasta and the second course of fried eggs, so you can see why we considered it a bargain. The hosts at L. del P. were also wonderful and gifted us with a beautiful bottle of wine as we left. They said that it was in appreciation of our food selections and wine pairings, as so few foreigners truly understand the real Italian way of eating, which as you might imagine, was a tremendous compliment to us. However, if in Piemonte, there are two other places that I would also highly recommend, one of which, Il Belvedere, in LaMorra, is in the Michelin, but not starred. Very reasonable prices and all the food is very good and it has an unforgettable cheese trolley with selections from local to international and their local jam (can’t remember what it’s called – it’s not like mostarda, more of a honey base) that they serve with the cheese is outstanding. Another place that we love is in Barolo and it is not in the Michelin at all. I can’t remember the name of it, but it is a bar, just across from the only edicola, on the main street – impossible to miss. In the back of the bar they have a dining room and it is possible to have a meal of only antipasti – this makes a great lunch. They are served one at a time and the diner is free to accept or pass on each item. Very casalinga type food, but delicious and so inexpensive. We had so many that we were afraid that we wouldn’t be able to eat that night, but no worries – we still did dinner justice. I think foodies have a way of always finding room for the good stuff. For your vegetarian spouse, I can think of no place better than Joia in Milano. We are more the meat-atarian type, but we have eaten here many times, by choice, and not missed the carne at all. It is amazing what the chef there can do without it. However, there are a few fish dishes for those who can’t imagine eating totally vegetarian. The only downside for you is that, again, it does have a Michelin star. Of course, living outside of Milano, I could go on and on – there are some incredible restaurants of all calibre there. Many are not listed in any guides. I believe Milano has a larger variety and the most top quality restaurants of anywhere in the country. It is also a lovely city, which quite unfairly gets very bad “tourist” press. If you are ever in that area, (actually any area – we have spent time in all regions except Calabria and Sicily) and are interested in any recommendations, please let me know. I will try to leave out the M stars. Although I don’t take notes, I do usually keep cards.
On our trip this year we plan to do something we’ve never done before and it is questionable as to whether our stomachs and pocketbooks will survive, but it should be memorable. We will be there for a month and we have reserved at all 5 of the 3 star Michelin restaurants. We will try one each week, except for numbers 4 & 5, which will only be 4 days apart. We have already been to Al Sorriso (not the one you were at near Ravenna) in Soriso, Italy – just north of Milano in alto Piemonte – several times. It is our daughter’s favorite. She was so impressed (as a teenager) the first time we went there because they change the tablecloth (and it wasn’t even soiled) between dinner and dessert and they used a candle under the wine carafe (the wine was very old). It sounds like a pretentious place, but in fact, it is very small and the ambience is very warm and friendly. They work very hard to make everything perfect. The food was just scrumptious, mostly traditional, with some interesting innovations. It is also one of the 3 star restaurants with a woman chef. We have also already been to La Pergola in Roma once before, but many years ago, in 1997. It was so very good and the view rivals anywhere we’ve been. The chef is German and, not to sound prejudiced, we were a little concerned, as we’ve had very good food in Germany, but nothing close to deserving of 3 stars from Michelin. Our concerns were groundless. The service was also totally unexpected – very warm and personal and not at all what you might think it would be in a large, chain hotel.
This time we decided that it would be interesting to visit all 5 of the 3 stars at about the same time, to better determine which might be our favorite. As we are getting on in years and will soon be living on a fixed income, we are afraid that there might not be too many more opportunities for us to do this. Anyway, if you are interested, I will be glad to give you our assessment of all 5 after our return. I can’t believe how long I have rattled on here, – sorry about that, but once I get started on food, I forget everything else. Happy travels and happy dining!!! Christy G.
Christy – thanks for taking the time to give me such detailed thoughts and opinions on food in Italy! It’s much appreciated. This is longer than most of my posts! I’ll re-read again before my next trip…
Helen Yuet Ling
Hi there, Thanks for the great review, I’m a Malaysian living in Modena, Italy, and I paid Meloncello a visit, and ordered practically the same thing as you did coz it sounded the most enticing to us
In your post, you mentioned having fettucine con ragu, but methinks its tagliatelle. It looks exactly like what I had. Do read my post here http://whimsicaljottings.wordpress.com/2009/07/28/trattoria-meloncello-bologna/
Keep up the writing, I love your posts, and will try your jiaozi recipe soonish. Regards.
admin Reply:
July 30th, 2009 at 6:17 pm
whimsicaljottings – ‘Fettuccine (literally “little ribbons” in Italian) is a type of pasta popular in Rome. It is a flat, thick noodle made of egg and flour, similar to what is called tagliatelle elsewhere in Italy’ – courtesy of Wikipedia! I would have written down in my notebook however the waiter would have described my dish, as I always take notes. Whatever we call it, it was delicious!
Helen Yuet Ling