Where To Eat In Bologna
Jan 25th, 2008 by admin
My recent trip to Bologna, Italy was the first one I’d ever made for the specific, sole purpose of eating, as opposed to sightseeing, shopping or visiting friends, with good food as a bonus. My husband’s been on an eating trip to Bologna though, so when he suggested it, I jumped at the chance of travelling to eat, or ‘traveleating‘, as I call it. This is after all what World Foodie Guide is all about!
But where to start in the gastronomic capital of Italy, also known as La Grassa – The Fat? Both husband and his father, who travels regularly to Italy on business, had personal recommendations to add to the Bologna restaurant shortlist, which I started compiling two months before our departure. But as it was my first trip to Bologna, I had to work hard.
After much online research and reading of other reviews, I finally narrowed the wishlist down to a more manageable number. However, whittling down the restaurants to just six – four dinners, two lunches – proved to be a tough task.
We wanted to eat at a range of different types of places, but not Michelin-starred restaurants, as husband didn’t think it was necessary to spend a lot in order to eat good, simple food in Bologna. Some restaurants were closed during the period between Christmas and New Year, while others were closed on Sundays. Others were just a little too far away from the centre, as we wanted to be able to walk to all the restaurants. In the end, the shortlist was presented to our Italian-speaking friend, who kindly made all the reservations for us, a month in advance, just in case.
Rodrigo made it because my father-in-law loves it, and because husband had a reservation there once, but missed it because his train was delayed. Diana, because Trattoria da Tony, another family favourite, was closed, and because husband insisted that I would like it. Caminetto D’Oro, because the online menu sounded creative. Meloncello, because it sounded quaint, and because of its location at the foot of the climb to San Luca. Montegrappa da Nello, because of some excellent reviews. Nicola’s, because husband wanted pizza.
You can read the reviews of each restaurant here on World Foodie Guide, except for Nicola’s (instead, read the review for Il Ducale).
We also visited the covered Mercato Delle Erbe, a treasure trove for all food lovers, as well as the food quarter near the Two Towers, where renowned Tamburini and other gourmet delicatessens are located. And even though there was barely any room in our stomachs for treats, it was impossible to resist the delights on offer at Caffe’ Pasticceria Zanarini, where I managed to squeeze in a mouth-watering brioche.
I’ve already drawn up my next list of restaurants to visit (not in any particular order), so we’ll need about a month to get through these and others that we find on the next trip. Of course, this isn’t an exhaustive list by any means. And you could eat really well in Bologna even without doing any research in advance. Bologna is truly a destination for any food lover! Let me know if you have any recommendations for me…
- Trattoria Teresina (via Oberdan 4. Tel: +39 (0)51 228 985. Closed Sundays). We walked past this after pizza at Il Ducale, and it looked lovely, as did the dishes on the menu
- Trattoria Da Tony (via Righi Augusto 1/B. Tel: +39 051 232 852 – closed an awful lot of the time!). But husband has been, and so has my father-in-law and stepmother-in-law. Simple, home-cooked dishes are served here
- Al Pappagallo (Piazza della Mercanzia 3. Tel: + 39 (0)51 231 200. Closed Sundays.) An historic and elegant restaurant, visited by Einstein and Hitchcock amongst others
- Nicola’s Pizzeria (Piazza San Martino 9. Tel: +39 (0)51 232 502). Supposedly serves the best pizzas in Bologna. We’re determined to try it next time
- Biagi Della Grada (via della Grada 6. Tel: +39 (0)51 553 025. Closed Tuesdays). An elegant, family-run restaurant that has been serving typical Bolognese cuisine since 1937
- Antica Osteria Romagnola (via Rialto 13. Tel: +39 (0)51 263 699). Delicious local and regional dishes can be found here, in a building that dates from 1600
- Da Cesari (via de’ Carbonesi 8, south of Piazza Maggiore. Tel: + 39 (0)51 237 710). More classic Bolognese cuisine to be found at this restaurant, which has been open for more than a century
- Trattoria Fantoni (via del Pratello 11a. Tel: +39 (0)51 236 358). The menu at this traditional trattoria changes daily, with simple Bolognese dishes on offer
- Silverio (via Mirasole 19. Tel: 051 585 857. Closed Sundays). A cute restaurant hidden away on a tiny street, serving Bolognese cuisine with a modern twist
10 – Perfection, 9.5 – Sensational, 9 – Outstanding, 8.5 – Superb,
8 – Excellent, 7.5 – Very Good, 7 - Good, 6.5 - Above Average, 6 – Average
All the Italy restaurant reviews on World Foodie Guide









Hi Helen,
I’ve just spent a week in Bologna, with your restaurant reviews tucked safely in my back pocket! We managed dinner at Nicola’s. The pizzas are huge, they hang off the plate in all directions. They’re pretty tasty, but they didn’t take our best Bolognese pizza award. We thought the best pizzas were at Scalinatella, Via Caduti di Cefalonia, 5. In the name of fairness though, you really should eat at both so you can come to your own conclusion
We also headed up Via Casaglia to a place that our Bolognese hosts called Nonno Rossi, but the great interweb calls Dal Nonno. It’s at Via Casaglia 62/2, about 15 minutes drive from Plaza maggiore (or a stiff, uphill 2-hour walk that makes you an hour late for dinner…) You can sit outside and the views are simply amazing. I’m not sure what is serves in winter, but when we were there a couple of weeks ago all they served was a fabulous antipasti spread with the two typical Bologense breads; round fried breads, and round pan-cooked breads, called (if memory serves) crescentine and tigelle, respectively.
Happy eating!
Anna (who’s very sadly back in Australia now)
Erlend Reply:
August 5th, 2009 at 10:16 pm
Salve!
My girlfriend and I just went to Nicola’s. Arriving without reservation was no problem this warm August evening and we were seated outside together with the other diners. The waiting staff took our orders quite quickly – in fact quick is the cue word for the entire meal. After ordering a pasta dish and a pizza we received some bruschetta with tomato. Only after a few bites my girlfriend was interrupted by an eager waiter serving her the pasta dish. I had to wait another ten minutes for my enormous pizza. The pasta dish was ok, after my taste, but nothing in particular. The pizza was ordinary to not all that. It would be no lie to say that we both were a bit disappointed. Especially the service was rather lousy. The price came out quite nice though. I wouldn’t give Nicola’s another try none the less. Quick orders, quick serving quickly filled up and soon to be forgotten.
admin Reply:
August 6th, 2009 at 10:33 am
Erlend – what a shame to hear this, but at least I don’t feel so bad about missing out on Nicola’s pizza. Perhaps Bologna is better for other classic dishes, not pizza…
Helen Yuet Ling
Hi Anna
Thanks for letting me know, especially about the pizzas. Two pizzerias to try, the husband will love that! And my father-in-law loved and recommended Nonno Rossi. I’d like to try it next time. Did you do the walk to Meloncello, then up to San Luca?
Happy eating to you too!
Helen Yuet Ling
Yes we did the walk to Meloncello and then up to San Luca. We did quite a lot of walking really! Unfortunately we didn’t eat at Meloncello, maybe next time. There’s only so many meals you can fit into one very hot week in Bologna
Cheers,
Anna
I also did loads of walking, trying to do as much exercise as possible so that I could keep eating! As it was winter, I needed the extra fuel from the meals, but I did struggle at times (I wasn’t even hungry for a couple of meals…)
Take care
Helen Yuet Ling
Hello everyone…
Dose anyone knows any Pure Vegetarian restaurant in bologna..?
My religion dosent allow non veg food. Its hard to find pure veg places around the world.
Harman
Harman – do you mean vegan or just vegetarian? My husband’s vegetarian and never has any problems finding plenty of options in any restaurant in Italy, especially Bologna.
Helen Yuet Ling